I am making up my Pencil Skirt Pattern Number 485 The Skirt is lined and has a proper back seam vent Do you remember this fabric? A furnishing remnant that appeared in Sewing for Beginners Part 1 I didn’t make a jacket Here it is – a skirt for the summer! You will need my Sewing Pattern and also the eBook if you like diagrams See the link for sewing pattern downloads And here is the assembled pattern You will need Main Fabric, Lining Fabric and Interfacing Check the pattern link for yardage A concealed zip at least 2” longer than the centre back opening All purpose thread to match and basting thread This is a Calico Demo for clarity Cut out according to layouts Snip the notches and tailor tack the dots Interfacing is cut sticky side up Note : the vent pieces are identical The waistband is cut from a single layer right side facing up Mark these dots with tailor’s tacks or just a snip The Lining pieces are cut out and marked up in the same way We will be removing this portion from the Left Back Lining Trim off 1/2” from the hem of the Lining Backs and the Lining Front I have ironed the vent interfacing to the wrong side of the backs Note that the positions are different.
I have also ironed the interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband, on the notched half Don’t forget the waistband was cut right side facing up I’ve cut away the pink portion of the vent from the patternto use as a template Turn it over and cut away the vent of the Left Back Lining We will be clipping to the dots here, here and here so we will stay stitch the corner sto limit the risk of fraying Machine a straight stitch just inside the seam allowance through the single layer of fabric.’
We will be clipping towards the dot This will be important when it comes to sewing the vent Stay stitch the two back lining pieces in the same way Then we will stitch all the dart sin the main fabric and the lining Find the line that goes through the centre of the dart and fold Match the dots and pin Chalk the line if you like and baste Machine, reducing stitch length as
you approach the point Run your stitches off the fold Leave long threads and knot close to the point If you choose to machine over pins instead of basting please, always wear eye protection With experience you can stitch your darts without pins or basting Press all the darts towards the centre Using a tailor’s ham is especially useful for pressing these darts for a smooth finish For wool and delicate fabrics always press through a cloth Next we will sew in the concealed zip Turn your backs, right side up Use any length of zip as long as it is at least two inches longer than the opening Line up the top of the zip tape with the raw edge Mark the length of the back opening clearly on the zip tape With the zip fully open, place the zip tape edge a long the back opening, right sides together The tape edge must be 1/8” or 0.
3cmfrom garment raw edge My Four Run Method See the PDF that goes with this pattern Use a Zipper Foot No need to pin unless fabric is stretchy Left back first – Don’t stretch the fabric First Run – Needle to the right, long stitch machine to fix tape in position End each run of stitching exactly on your mark Second Run – Needle to the left normal stitch length Stitch as close to the teeth uncurling the teeth as you go Slightly pushing the foot towards the teeth as you stitch Right Back Third Run – With needle still to the left, long stitch machine to fix the tape in position Fourth Run – Needle to the right.
As before stitch close to the zip teeth A good neat finish on the right side With the backs right sides together complete the centre back seam Starting as close as you are able to the end of the opening finishing at the dot at the top of the vent Trim the zip 2” below your mark Hand stitch the remaining seam for a neat finish.
Press the back seam open Lightly press from the right side using a press cloth Machine stitch the surplus zip tape to the seam allowances Again, using the zipper foot is useful Now for the Back Vent. best quilting sewing machine
We have clipped into the seam allowance here so that the under lap of the back vent will lie flat and the seam allowance above remains pressed open With the lining backs, right sides together we will join the back seam below the zip opening Pin, baste and machine between the dots Fold in and baste the lining seam allowance above the dot Press the seam open only between the dots We have snipped into this angle to help us when we sew the vent Pin and baste a 1/2” turning at the hem of the lining backs and also the front I continue sewing the back vent in part two Visit angel akane.
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